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| Landscape view taken from Khardung La Top |
Day 4 - Nubra Valley to Leh: via Diskit Monastery. Leh Tour: Shanti Stupa.
Yeay! Finally, we could start the road trip today! We had to get ready and gather before 08.00 am, stand by in front of the office of Indian Himalayan Expedition travel tour as a meeting point. Previously we had breakfast at the nearest restaurant, Mentokling Guest House & Apple Garden Restaurant, which was open from morning, well enough for our stomachs so we bought bread and tea, and mineral water for lunch. The two of us together with the three other travelers rent one car with five people and one driver inside with positions 2-3-1. I was in the front left, Kak Nina sat in the middle, two Indian couples newly-wed in the middle, and one Taiwanese (who was actually a group of three with two friends but he arrived first) sitting in the back by himself. The driver was Fayaz, from Srinagar, Jammu & Kashmir, whose skills are super reliable on the driving battlefield and also very friendly and kind. We left around 8 o'clock in the morning with Mahindra Xylo, the weather was very sunny, the morning sun was shining brightly, sitting in the front seat hit by warm sunlight coming in haha. Not long after, the terrain outside started to change to meandering landscape with the view of hill wall to the the right and the valley to the left. Before entering the foothills of the Himalaya Mountain, we stopped at South Pulu, which was the first checkpoint, for passport and PAP checks for foreigners (already taken care on the day before). As for Indian citizens, it is enough with personal data.
The scenery outside was still continuous hills and valleys side by side as before, until the higher the elevation of the road turn getting sharper, the steeper the hills and the valleys , the cooler the temperature, then we arrive at the foothills of the Himalayan mountains, the ice covers the tops and sides of the mountains. Such an amazing view there. Along the way, accompanied by the music of Bollywood, especially movie OST which are quite famous and familiar in Indonesia (Kuch Kuch Hota Hai), while Fayaz had non stop chat with the husband of the Indians (maybe in order to us stay alert from sleepiness, haha). We, as not native Indians, didn't know what they are talking about because of the language barrier so we only hear it like melody as the accompaniment of the song and just occasionally nodding in tune with their intonation, lol.
Yay! Akhirnya hari ini bisa mulai roadtrip. Sebelum jam 08.00 pagi kami sudah harus siap dan kumpul, stand by di depan kantor tour travel Indian Himalayan Expedition sebagai meeting point. Sebelumnya sarapan dulu di resto terdekat, Mentokling Guest House & Apple Garden Restaurant, yang sudah buka dari pagi, lumayan untuk ganjal perut kami beli roti dan teh, serta air mineral untuk bekal. Kami berdua bersama tiga traveler lain rental satu mobil isi lima orang dan satu driver dengan posisi 2-3-1. Saya di kiri depan, Kak Nina duduk di tengah, dua orang India couple newly weed di tengah, dan satu orang Taiwan (yang sebenernya rombongan bertiga sama dua temennya tapi dia udah nyampe duluan) duduk paling belakang sendiri. Drivernya, Fayaz, orang Srinagar, Jammu & Kashmir, yang skilnya super handal di medan pertempuran perjalanan dan juga sangat ramah. Berangkatlah kita sekitar jam 8 pagi dengan Mahindra Xylo, cuaca sangat cerah, matahari pagi bersinar terang, karena duduk di kursi depan kerasa banget hangatnya sinar matahari masuk haha. Tidak lama, medan mulai berkelok-kelok dengan view kanan dinding bukit, kiri lembah. Sebelum memasuki kawasan kaki Peg. Himalaya, kami stop di South Pulu yang menjadi checkpoint pertama, untuk pemeriksaan paspor dan PAP (yang hari sebelumnya kami urus) bagi warga asing. Sementara untuk warga India cukup dengan data diri saja.
Scenery kontinu masih bukit dan lembah berdampingan seperti sebelumnya, hingga makin tinggi ketinggian kelokan semakin tajam, bukit makin terjal dan lembah makin curam, suhu udara makin dingin, sampailah kita di kaki bukit pegunungan Himalaya, es menutupi puncak-puncak dan sisi pegunungan. Such an amazing view there. Sepanjang perjalanan, diiringi alunan musik Bollywood terutama OST film2 yang cukup terkenal dan familiar di Indonesia, sementara Fayaz ngobrol dengan suami dari Orang India tadi tanpa henti (mungkin biar nggak ngantuk juga sih ya haha). Kita yang bukan orang India mendengarnya seperti iringan alunan lagu karena nggak tau bahasa India jadi nggak tau apa yang mereka bicarakan, cuma sesekali mengangguk-angguk senada dengan intonasi, lol.
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| still from another side of Khardung La Road |
Our second stop point is at Khardung La Top at Khardung La Pass, the World Highest Motorable Road, which is 39.7 km from Leh with a travel time of approximately 3 hours from Leh, we arrived there at around 11.00 am, with the elevation claimed in boards 5602 m (18380 ft) while the actual elevation claimed is 5359 m (17582 ft) from Wikipedia. Distance from South Pullu 24 km and next North Pullu 14 km. The journey from South Pulu to Khardung La Pass is a two-way road that is prone to landslides, sometimes with debris and minor avalanches, sharp turns, melting snow ice mixed with mud. This road continued to be maintained by the army throughout the day. Sometimes in the middle of the road, roadworks are found. Khardung La Pass is an important portal or entrance to Nubra Valley and Shyok Valley. The view of Khardung La Top faces towards Leh Valley in the south. At Khardung La Top there are Indian army posts or camps, temples and monastery, as well as mini boards and monuments where travelers taking photos. Snow ice on the nearest hill become a place for some visitors for snow playing and sliding in the ice. "Finally, I can see and playing with snow!" I said that as the tacky tropical people lol. However, we were recommended to not more than 20-35 minutes staying there, as stated on the warning board. We only took a photo for a while, then continued on to the next check point at North Pullu, 14 km from Khardung La. Those twists and turns of the trip were unceasingly accompanied by the background of the pleasantly lilting Indian songs.
Stop point kedua kami ada di Khardung La Top di Khardung La Pass, the World Highest Motorable Road, yang terletak 39.7 km dari Leh dengan waktu tempuh kurang lebih sekitar 3 jam dari Leh, kami tiba sekitar pukul 11.00 siang, dengan ketinggian yang di claim di papan 5602 m (18380 ft) sementara ketinggian sebenarnya yang di claim dari wikipedia 5359 m (17582 ft). Jarak dari South Pullu 24 km dan berikutnya North Pullu 14 km. Perjalanan dari South Pulu ke Khardung La Pass ini melewati jalan dua arah yang rawan longsor, kadang ada debris dan longsoran minor, berkelok tajam, salju es yang mencair menyatu dengan lumpur. Jalan ini terus di maintain oleh tentara sepanjang hari. Kadang di tengah jalan, ditemukan perbaikan jalan. Khardung La Pass merupakan portal atau gerbang masuk penting untuk ke Nubra Valley dan Shyok Valley. View dari Khardung La Top menghadap ke arah Leh Valley di selatan. Di Khardung La Top ini terdapat pos atau camp tentara India, temple dan monastery, serta papan dan monumen mini tempat traveller berfoto-foto. Salju es di bukit terdekat juga bisa menjadi tempat untuk main salju dan seluncuran beberapa pengunjung. Akhirnya liat dan main salju! Kata saya yang orang tropis norak hahaha. Tapi kita dianjurkan untuk tidak lebih dari 20-35 menit disitu, seperti yang tertera di papan peringatan. Kami foto-foto sebentar, kemudian melanjutkan perjalanan ke next check point di North Pullu, 14 km dari Khardung La. Lika-liku perjalanan tadi tak henti-hentinya tetap diiringi background alunan lagu India yang mendayu-dayu, hahaha.
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| Khardung La Top sign board |
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| from Khardung La Road |
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| Prayer Flags around the hills and valleys |
The second check point, North Pullu, stops for another check. From North Pullu, we continued our journey, stopping at the next stop for lunch break at around 01.30 pm, the field of the trips to the resting stop started to be a little normal, the altitude starting to decrease towards the valley, the road was all good again. The lunch spot was on the roadside behind the hills with giant alluvial fans. The lunch menu we met as usual was the menu of rice and curry, luckily we found soda and ice in the midday heat. So, throughout the trip, the temperature and weather change briefly according to the altitude. It was cold and windy in Khardung La added with thin oxygen, after we coming down the valley it was hot again but the wind was still cold.
Next stop point is Samstanling Gompa. Previously we stopped at the local village (I forgot the name) to try to withdraw money from the ATM. Samstanling monastery is located in the village of Sumur, Nubra Valley, Ladakh, 124 km from Leh, which was founded about 140 years ago, in 1814 by Lama Tsultim Nima. This monastery is surrounded by vibrant colors of red gold and white, blending into the scenic beauty of the Ladakh hills. We only took a few pictures here because of the limited time, it was almost evening and we must arrive at the last main stop point before dark.
Check point kedua, North Pullu, stop sebentar untuk pemeriksaan lagi. Dari North Pullu, kami melanjutkan perjalanan, berhenti di next stop untuk istirahat makan siang sekitar pukul 13.30, medan perjalanan menuju ke stop istirahat mulai sedikit normal, ketinggian berkurang mulai menuju lembah, jalan sudah baik kembali. Tempat makan siangnya ada di pinggir jalan di balik bukit dengan alluvial fan raksasa. Makan siang seperti biasa dengan menu nasi dan kari, beruntung ada soda dan es ditengah panas terik cuaca siang hari. Jadi, sepanjang perjalanan, suhu dan cuaca berubah singkat sesuai elevasi. Dari kita kedinginan berangin di Khardung La dengan ditambah dengan oksigen tipis, setelah turun lembah kembali terik panas tapi angin masih dingin.
Next stop point adalah Samstanling Gompa. Sebelumnya kami mampir dulu ke desa.... (lupa namanya) untuk coba tarik ATM. Samstanling monastery ini berada di desa Sumur, Nubra Valley, Ladakh, 124 km dari Leh, yang didirikan sekitar 140 tahun lalu, pada tahun 1814 oleh Lama Tsultim Nima. Monastery ini dikelilingi warna vibrant merah emas dan putih, menyatu di tengah keindahan scenery perbukitan Ladakh. Kami foto-foto sebentar saja disini karena waktu terbatas sudah hampir sore dan harus segera sampai di stop point utama yang terakhir sebelum gelap.
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| Giant Alluvial Fans |
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| Samstanling Gompa |
From Sumur, we headed to the main and final stop at Hunder Sand Dunes in the village of Hunder, Nubra Valley, Ladakh, after previously searching for a Guest House to stay overnight. Arriving at the stop point around 06:00 pm, it was already dusk even if the sky was still quite bright, but sadly still not bright enough for photography. Even so, it does not simply lessen the beauty of the amazing landscape here. Desert with white sand in the middle of the plateau and ice mountains. Such a view. Not to mention a lot of geological features here, from the giant alluvial fans to a major unconformity that is clearly visible in the hill walls. I just noticed the unconformity clearly from the photo, because even though it is very large in the middle of the hill, it was less clearly seen as it was getting bit darker after a while and we were in a hurry and busy with the camel, lol. Some activities offered for visitors here are especially the Bactrian Camel safari around Hunder Sand Dunes. This desert is home to Bactrian Camel, which plays an important role during the ancient silk route. Thus, riding this Bactrian Camel, we felt like going to the past on the ancient silk route in its decade, which was the main route of Central Asian trade at the time. Basically there are still a number of other activities from the offer here (archery and watching dances) but because it was getting darker and darker, we could only have Bactrian Camel safaris and photographs, it was truly unfortunate for us only had a short time at this Hunder Sand Dunes with that long-long trip. It feels very short and we clearly still want to stay there longer. On the way to the Guest House, we passed several camps where the ceremony was performed with local dances and singing, but we didn't stop by because we couldn't.
Dari Sumur, kami menuju stop utama dan terakhir di Hunder Sand Dunes di desa Hunder, Nubra Valley, Ladakh, setelah sebelumnya mencari Guest House dulu untuk menginap. Sampai di stop point sekitar pukul 18.00, sudah senja meskipun masih cukup terang, tapi masih kurang cerah untuk fotografi, sedihnya disitu sebenernya. Meskipun begitu, tidak mengurangi keindahan lanskap disini yang menakjubkan. Gurun dengan pasir putih di tengah dataran tinggi dan pegunungan es. Such a view. Belum lagi banyak sekali geological features disini, dari mulai alluvial fan raksasa yang banyak ditemukan disini, ada juga terlihat major unconformity yang terlihat jelas di perbukitan (sebenernya saya baru sadar pas lihat foto sih hehe), karena sudah agak gelap dan terburu-buru jadi kurang memperhatikan ada unconformity padahal sangat besar ditengah bukit. Disini beberapa aktivitas ditawarkan untuk visitor, terutama safari Bactrian Camel mengelilingi Hunder Sand Dunes. Gurun ini merupakan rumah untuk Bactrian Camel, yang berperan penting selama ancient silk route. Jadi rasanya naik Bactrian Camel ini, kita lagi ada di jalur sutra kuno di masa kejayaannya, yang merupakan jalur utama perdagangan Asia Tengah kala itu. Sebenarnya masih ada beberapa aktivitas lain yang ditawarkan (memanah dan melihat tarian) tapi karena hari sudah gelap jadi kami hanya safari Bactrian Camel dan foto-foto, sangat disayangkan kami cuma punya waktu sebentar di Hunder Sand Dunes ini dengan perjalanan selama itu. Rasanya sangat singkat dan masih ingin stay. Dalam perjalanan menuju Guest House, kami melewati beberapa camp tempat upacara dengan tarian-tarian dan nyayian lokal, tapi tidak mampir.
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| Camel ride on Nubra Valley |
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| The Camels! |
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| Giant outcrops that make me sooo happy! |
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| Our camel ride into the sunset |
Here, it feels more like being in Tibet with mixed cultures. The air was also quite cold, especially at night. Two Indians decided to stay overnight in a tent, while the three of us and the driver decided to stay at the Guest House. Fayaz took us to Shayok Guest House who seems to be familiar with the owner. Before the deal, Fayaz was very good at bidding on the price of the Guest House owner, lol. Luckily, me and Kak Nina got the price of one room for INR 1000 per night for two, including WiFi and bathroom inside, the room was also spacious and clean. After a long journey, we were finally able to rest and get dinner. The dinner had already been provided too by the Guest House owner with delicious dishes, more typical of Arabian cuisines. Great and recommended stay. Oh well, but one thing is that after 11:00 pm, the electricity was turned off, because the generator here used solar panels. Kak Nina, while doing office work, was shocked because the electricity went out, while I was sleeping before 11:00 p.m. Lol.
Disini rasanya lebih seperti berada di Tibet dengan kebudayannya yang mungkin sudah bercampur. Udara disini juga dingin terutama malam hari. Dua orang India memutuskan untuk menginap di tenda, sedangkan kami bertiga beserta driver memutuskan untuk menginap di Guest House. Fayaz membawa kita ke Shayok Guest House yang tampaknya sudah familiar dengan pemiliknya, sebelum deal, Fayaz jago sekali menawar harga pada pemilik Guest House hahaha. Beruntung sekali, saya dan Kak Nina dapat harga satu kamar INR 1000 per malam berdua, sudah termasuk WiFi dan kamar mandi dalam, kamarnya juga luas dan bersih. Setelah perjalanan jauh, akhirnya kami bisa beristirahat, yang sebelumnya sudah disediakan makan malam juga oleh sang pemilik Guest House. Masakannya enak lebih khas Arabian. Great and recommended stay. Oiya, akan tetapi satu kekurangannya adalah setelah jam 23.00, listrik dipadamkan, karena pembangkit disini menggunakan panel surya. Kak Nina yang sedang mengerjakan tugas kantor sempat kaget karena listrik padam, sementara saya sudah tidur sebelum jam 11 malam, hehehe.
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